The Chave family have been growing grapes in the Rhône Valley since 1481. (Photo / Getty Images)
The Chave family has been growing grapes on the spectacular, part-granite hill of Hermitage, in France’s northern Rhône Valley, since 1481. The 2020 and 2021 vintages of their famous, syrah-based red, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage, are currently sold here at $400 to $500-plus a bottle.
So, what happens if you line up six older Chave Hermitages, from the 2005 to 2015 vintages, alongside six of Hawke’s Bay’s and Waiheke Island’s top syrahs, from 2006 to 2014, and taste them “blind” (labels hidden)?
My favourite was Chave Hermitage 2009 – headily perfumed and awash with red berry, spice, liquorice and dark chocolate flavours – followed by Chave’s 2013 and 2015 vintages. But the illustrious French reds are far higher priced, and they enjoy a head start of about five centuries.
Cable Bay Reserve Waiheke Island Syrah 2010
★★★★★
This distinguished red is still full of youthful vigour. Richly coloured, it is invitingly scented and sturdy, with intense ripe, almost lush flavours of blackcurrants, liquorice, spices and nuts. $85 (Since its 2010 release, the price has shot up to around $360.)
Craggy Range Le Sol 2007
★★★★★
When it was released, Craggy Range viewed this red as its greatest syrah to date. It’s hard to argue, because it’s now showing superb density, vigour, elegance and length. $90
La Collina Syrah 2013