Kiwis love oysters and wine, so how does one of Europe’s famous destinations compare?
Part of the walls of Ston, which were built in the 14th century by the Dubrovnik Republic to protect its salt plains. Photo / Getty Images
Oysters and wine.
A combination that’s sure to excite New Zealanders, especially during our winter months, with the famed Bluff oyster season.
It is also something some may be surprised to learn they’ve been doing in the Croatian town of Ston since at least the 17th century.
The romantic rumours of oysters have been known since ancient times, and the local delicacy has been coveted by history’s lords, emperors and kings throughout Europe.
Ston is an hour’s drive along the twisting and beautifully scenic road that hugs the Adriatic Sea coastline north from Dubrovnik.
Former city-states, such as Dubrovnik and Venice, exploited their geography to generate enormous wealth through trade for centuries. In Dubrovnik’s case, it also saw fit to promote and preserve the Ston oyster.
Croatia is full of historic sites, with many of its Roman ruins and medieval fortresses preserved, and like Dubrovnik – perhaps known more today as a Game of Thrones pilgrimage site for fans of the show – the smaller Ston is also surrounded by medieval defensive walls.
At first glance, one might think these were to protect citizens from sea raiders but instead, they were to protect its precious saltworks, which still operate today.
While the oysters have been here for a while, the Dalmatian Coast is also now coming of age with its food scene. Olive trees and vineyards now dot the landscape for you to visit as the region emerges from the rather large gastronomic shadow cast by neighbours Italy and Greece.


The town of Ston and the nearby village Mali Ston, both on the isthmus connecting the Peljesac peninsula to the mainland, have become something of a wine and seafood hub for Croatians and tourists alike.
Oysters, muscles and other shellfish are all farmed there, and the area has become world-renowned for cultivating the premium European flat oyster in what is the nutrient-rich, protected Mali Ston Bay.
So, after walking along the walls – a 30-minute stroll in the sun – what better than some seafood tasting and a glass of wine?
Food tours are available, but you can find the local oysters on the menu of almost every restaurant tucked within Ston’s narrow streets. You can’t go wrong with any place; the hard part is finding a free table.
Some shade under the centuries-old villas provide respite from the sun for a spot of lunch. The last oysters I had enjoyed were at Rātā Restaurant in Queenstown, so the standard to achieve was high.


You can order the delicacy however you’d prefer – fried, roasted or battered – but I opt for half a dozen raw with lemon and a dash of vinegar and a glass of local white wine.
The first thing you’ll notice is the size: smaller than a New Zealand oyster, followed by the smell, which should always be of the salty ocean (if they don’t smell like the sea, don’t eat them).
After tucking into a Ston oyster, you notice the taste. Mediterranean seafood is naturally saltier than what you’ll experience in the South Pacific. This is despite the bay of Mali Ston being known for having one of the cleanest freshwater flows in the Mediterranean basin.
As is often the case, there’s science behind it. The Mediterranean Sea is saltier than other, larger bodies of water because of the higher evaporation rates, warmer regional temperatures from Southern Europe and North Africa, and the limited water flow through the Strait of Gibraltar.
A fun fact to tell your table guests when you visit Ston.
The time to visit is, of course, in March, when the annual oyster festival is held. It marries with the Feast of St Joseph on March 19 in heavily religious Croatia. Nearly 80% of the country reports being Catholic, so you’ll see plenty of churches and locals attending mass on Sunday mornings.
If you’re after a trip that indulges in some old-world delicacies, then the Dalmatian Coast is one to add to your list.
Lunch was delicious, but it’s still hard to beat a Bluff oyster.
Details
Prices start from $4290 for Explore Worldwide’s eight-day Croatia Island Hopping holiday.
exploreworldwide.co.nz/holidays/croatia-island-hopping
New Zealand Herald Travel flew to Europe and stayed in accommodation in Croatia courtesy of Explore Worldwide. Other expenses were covered by the author.