Swan Hellenic's new cruise routes explore remote islands and hidden snorkelling spots in Indonesia and the Pacific. Photo / Chris Stead
If you’re keen to explore destinations few others have ventured, Swan Hellenic’s new cruise routes reveal hidden tribes, isolated islands and secret snorkelling spots, writes Chris Stead.
The shape emerges slowly from the gloomy depths, climbing shades of blue towards a surface sparkling under a newborn sun. I glance at the fellow travellers floating by my side. All eyes locked forward.
First the unmistakeable dorsal fin, splicing the ocean in half. Then that giant sweeping tail, heaving walls of water aside. Finally, that unmistakable mouth yawns into a cavern, inviting everything inside. Skintight constellation.
It’s a whale shark and it’s not alone. Another goliath circles upwards beneath it – 10 breathtaking metres. Soon they are within touching distance, devoting a sliver of their curiosity to the intrepid explorers of Swan Hellenic’s SH Minerva as they pursue a bounty falling from the local fishermen’s nets.
It’s barely our second day and already this expedition cruise has delivered.
Swanning around
Best known for its Antarctica, Arctic and African routes, boutique expedition cruise line Swan Hellenic has this year expanded its tropical operations with several routes in and around Indonesia, PNG, the Solomon Islands and Philippines.
I was invited onboard the first Secrets of the Coral Triangle itinerary, which circles through West Papua and into the richest marine biodiversity sanctuary on Earth – Raja Ampat.
We sailed on the SH Minerva, a gorgeous ship holding 152 guests. It’s well-provisioned for remote encounters, from Zodiacs piled upon its stern, a science lab, kayaks, a mudroom with lockers for every guest and a comfortable lecture lounge where presentations on the sights and sounds of our destinations are delivered by a wonderful cast of qualified scientists. Within arm’s reach of the bar, too.
Yet it’s also very luxurious. Extraordinary fine-dining acts as the skeleton holding each day’s itinerary together. There’s a spa, sauna, jacuzzi and wonderful outdoor pool with panoramic views. Everywhere feels premium – from the design and lighting to the technology and sunlounges.
I loved the ship experience. The staff are amazing, quickly becoming companions in your journey, happy to share their stories. The cabins are spacious, comfortable and provisioned with everything you could need – from a full minibar to a large shower, vast balcony, couch and entertainment-filled TV. It even has a faux, crackling fireplace to set the mood.
It’s modest with its facilities and entertainment, but remains one of the most thoughtfully designed, comfortable and functional ships I’ve ever been on. Wherever you are, you can still see the Papuan archipelago sail by. And I couldn’t have been more impressed with the professionalism of Swan Hellenic’s systems and processes on the company’s first-ever run on this route. I felt safe and indulged.
Plus, as an all-inclusive experience, almost everything is included, outside of scuba diving and spa treatments. So, all the daily excursions are covered.
Speaking of which …
See what others don’t
Swan Hellenic’s tagline, “see what others don’t”, certainly holds true – our dual whale shark encounter was just the tip of the iceberg. Each day starts early in a new location. There’s one excursion before lunch; then the ship moves to a new location for a post-lunch excursion.
On one such occasion, we boarded the Zodiacs in groups of 10, as would become routine, then zipped across the small waves, squinting into the spray. Shortly, we could make out the beach ahead; too remote for a jetty.
As we pulled up into the sand, dozens of dark brown eyes looked at us in wonder. Above their brows, multi-coloured feathered crowns. Grass skirts twirling around their waists as they welcomed us with a traditional dance. Gifts were exchanged with a few lucky guests and then we were invited to explore the village. Swan Hellenic’s local guide acted as translator.
Owi Island was a remote Japanese outpost in World War II and most of the village’s 329 residents had come out to greet us. High fives from the kids; photos with the adults. It was Papuan culture not as tourists see it, but as it’s lived. We were invited in with open arms, and it was exhilarating.
When I found out we were the first expedition group to visit the island, I felt like I was doing something truly special. So far off the beaten track there is no track, consuming knowledge about a world I didn’t know I shared like a sponge under a waterfall.
We would ultimately meet many locals: in fishing villages with doorless houses built on stilts, to missionary-funded towns built around churches. We danced with tribes, shared their food and probed with questions about their history and way of life. And returned the favour. Always exploring; always finding.
Tropical worlds above and below
I love discovering culture, but I also adore nature and Raja Ampat is one of the greatest destinations on Earth for adventurous snorkellers and divers. We’d snorkel at least once if not twice every day, and I was lucky enough to dive in three locations. Each experience offered something special.
Sometimes we literally beached the Zodiacs on an isolated island and swam to a reef. At others, the Zodiacs became platforms over atolls when no land was in sight. Occasionally, there was something specific to see – like a crashed WWII plane – but often it was just about being immersed in aquarium-like worlds richly decorated in coral and surrounded by postcard-perfect tropical vistas.
I was astounded by the variety, quantity and size of sea life we encountered, from little Nemo clownfish to big barracuda. Stingrays, sharks, eels, dolphins, crabs and turtles. We saw it all; floating at peace in warm waters and generally with great visibility. And if you’re lucky enough to dive – wow. The view at Melissa’s Garden, up from a coral cave through 18m of water thick with fish twirling like a tornado, will never be forgotten.
Yet on the last day, as our Zodiac wrapped its way through a labyrinth of jungle-coated limestone karsts, turquoise waters alight with life, I realised I knew the names of everyone on board. The secret ingredient was us. We had been brought together from all around the world by a desire to explore something few ever do. To enlighten ourselves to life’s grander tapestry.
The cruise may have been the conduit, but the people were the electricity. The power.
So, as I disembarked the Zodiac one last time, snorkel in hand, salt on my skin and a sun‑kissed smile, only to be handed a cocktail on the pool deck to watch the sun’s final set over the sea, I knew the truth.
This is as good as travel gets.
The writer travelled courtesy of Swan Hellenic.