A Definitive Guide To The Most Effective Serums To Use In Your 20s, 30s, 40s, 50s & Beyond
Pigmentation? Acne? Dehydration? These serums help treat every skin concern, at every age and stage of life.
Searching for the right serum can often feel like a lifelong pursuit. Just when you think you have it all figured out, your skin throws you a curveball: hello blind pimple or a bout of sensitivity.
Not to mention those tricky-to-figure-out combination skin types that fluctuate between ultra-parched to oil slick.
Then there’s the task of figuring out how to tweak your skincare regime to suit the changes that the privilege of ageing brings.
Microbiome science dictates how everyone’s skin is unique - crawling with microscopic bacteria specific to each of us - but some universally accepted truths remain as to what happens to skin on a physiological level as time marches on.
Below, an expert dives into the changing needs of skin from 20s to midlife and beyond, along with the serums to help you care for your complexion in every decade.
In your 20s
The aim: Prevention, hydration and sun protection.
Key changes: According to Caci national skincare educator Linda Sharrem, how you treat your skin in your 20s will influence the way you age down the track.
“At 20, you feel invincible, and ageing is the furthest thing from your mind. However, you do not start ageing from the outside in, but also the inside out,” she explains.
Sharrem says lifestyle habits play a part in this process, with a poor diet, vaping and excessive alcohol consumption all contributing to premature ageing. Someone in their 20s can expect to lose approximately 1-2% of their collagen annually, depending on lifestyle, she says.
When it comes to preventative measures, Sharrem says SPF is a must (regardless of age). The effects of sun damage are cumulative, so while you might assume you can get away with forgoing this step in your 20s, the impact can show up on your face in your 40s.
“UV exposure damages our skin cells, leading to dark spots and DNA damage later in life,” Sharrem says.
Hyaluronic acid is the gold standard when it comes to hydration, which plays nicely with every skin tone and type. Formulas that contain different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid will ensure it reaches the different layers of skin.
Sharrem also advises seeking out an antioxidant treatment like vitamin C for added protection.
Product picks: La Roche Posay Hyalu B5 Hyaluronic Acid Serum, $59, boasts a hydrating water-gel texture and helps to intensely hydrate and plump skin. For a vitamin C hit, consider the Boost Lab Vitamin C Brightening Serum, $35, to fend off free radical damage and leave skin bright, radiant and glowing.
In your 30s
The aim: Early repair and brightening.
Key changes: Even the most subtle skin changes in your 30s can be chalked up to the decline in cell turnover, Sharrem says, leading to a complexion that may appear slightly dull or dehydrated.
If you haven’t been diligent with SPF, you might notice the effects of sun damage - like uneven skin tone. While skin can be bouncy in some areas, it may start to feel lax in others, a sign that collagen is continuing its decline.
“You will notice this around the eyes with dark circles and fine lines due to the thinness of periocular skin here,”Sharrem says.
Key ingredients to reach for in your 30s include niacinamide, which Sharrem says helps protect skin from oxidative stress, boost brightness and even out skin texture. Retinol is another (incorporated into your routine at the right concentration and frequency to ensure tolerance without irritation).
If you’re not using an exfoliant, Sharrem recommends incorporating a gentle alpha hydroxy acid into your routine, along with an eye cream that combines peptides and antioxidants.
Product picks: Skinsmiths PRO Strength Niacinamide Serum, $132, is powered by a 5% concentration of niacinamide alongside Tasman pepper and vitamin B5 to improve skin texture, tone and redness.Arke 2 The Serum, $120, harnesses a 12% concentration of niacinamide to regulate pigment, support collagen production and enhance elasticity.
In your 40s
The aim: Renewal and firmness.
Key changes: Hormonal fluctuations hit their peak in this decade, especially if you’ve entered perimenopause or menopause. Physiologically, skin becomes thinner and less elastic as collagen stores drop once more.
Sharrem says skin can be dehydrated but also dry (yes, there’s a difference) as thinner skin produces less oil and sweat.
The tell-tale signs of neglecting skin in your 20s and 30s will be more evident now, rendering skin-renewing ingredients a must.
“Photodamage is visible now, not only with dark spots and pigmentation but also redness and visible capillaries,” Sharrem says. “The fine lines around the eyes are not that fine anymore and you will notice a loss of fat pads in cheeks.”
Ramp up your routine with nourishing cream-based products, Sharrem says, a must to use both morning and night. Retinol serums will help boost the skin’s cell turnover and smooth fine lines and wrinkles.
If photoageing is a concern, look to hard-hitting brightening ingredients like arbutin, vitamin C as well as a whole host of acids – tranexamic, kojic, glycolic or lactic.
Product picks: Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum, $190, smooths fine lines and deep wrinkles, even skin tone and boost radiance. Juliette Armand Ameson PDRN Rejuvenation Serum, $248, targets the signs of ageing, including expression lines, sagging and wrinkles, along with discolouration and dullness.
In your 50s (and beyond)
The aim: Deep nourishment and tone management.
Key changes: By the time you hit your 50s, it’s normal to have lost an average of 40% of collagen in your skin, Sharrem says.
In the first five years of menopause, Linda says most women lose a significant amount of collagen or elasticity in the skin, which is why many people will experience a sudden ‘sagging’ of the skin.
“This is because as our oestrogen drops, we lose elasticity which is what holds the skin up,” Sharrem explains.
Experiencing a patch of redness? Skin sensitivity can sometimes be an issue in your 50s due to thinning skin combined with inflammation.
As such, an increase in hydration is key. Sharrem advises utilising oils rich in omegas and fatty acids as they form a protective layer over skin to lock in moisture.
Level up your regime with serums, eye treatments and overnight creams containing retinal – a wonder ingredient to target the loss of collagen and elasticity.
If hormonal breakouts ail you (common during menopause), Sharrem says salicylic acid works wonderfully as a spot treatment – and can be dotted onto pesky bumps.
Product picks: Osmosis Stem Factor MD Growth Factor Serum, $333, supports the needs of ageing skin by nourishing stem cells and fibroblasts, rebuilding the skin’s natural growth factors and proteins. Medik8 Crystal Retinal 6, $155, reduces wrinkles, brightens dark spots and improves skin firmness without irritation.
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