Everything Your Teen Should (And Shouldn’t) Be Using On Their Skin
Here’s how to tell your teen that elaborate, 10-step routines and too-harsh products are no good for their skin.
Teen skincare has come a long way since the days of Clean & Clear’s three-step system, a too-vigorous application of St Ives Apricot Scrub or a good dollop of toothpaste as the blemish buster of choice.
The conversation around modern-day skincare routines for tweens and teens is wildly different.
It’s what the internet has deemed “Sephora teens”, named for their obsession with chasing unrealistic beauty standards using a barrage of skincare products.
Today, children as young as 10 are regularly consuming social media videos that tap into a growing demand for skincare knowledge.
Even scarier, a 2024 study by e-commerce platform Vagaro revealed 39% of Gen Z spend more on skincare than any other generation - to the tune of NZD$400-$600 across a one-year period. Gen Alpha is a closed second.
There is also a growing trend of teens using anti-ageing products, thanks to unrealistic videos doing the rounds on TikTok.
But does your teen need to follow a fussy 10-step routine? Or use retinol on the regular?
We asked skincare experts for their top tips on the products or treatments tweens and teens should (and shouldn’t) use.
What are some of the common skin conditions that crop up on teen skin?
According to Leanne Winsor, Dermalogica NZ education manager, the most common skin condition teens face is breakouts - most often linked to hormonal fluctuations.
Increased androgen levels common during puberty can overstimulate the sebaceous (oil) glands, triggering an overproduction of sebum.
Combine this with dead skin cells on the skin’s surface and you’ve got an environment in which acne loves to thrive - excess sebum acts as a food source for acne-causing bacteria, causing cells to become “sticky”, clogging pores and leading to pimples, cysts and blackheads.
But hormones are only one part of the equation, says Evre skincare founder Maree Glading.
“Overuse of harsh actives, stripping products, poor barrier function, stress, diet and even social media-driven skincare trends are all contributing factors,” she says.
“What we’re seeing more of now is compromised skin, teens using products that are simply too strong for their developing skin.”
What ingredients should teens avoid?
Active ingredients including retinol aren’t necessary for teen skin, says Winsor. Instead it’s better to educate your teen on how to form good habits around caring for their skin - like respecting their skin barrier and applying broad-spectrum SPF every day.
“Teens don’t need too many actives on their skin,” Winsor says. “Maintenance is key to keep skin balanced - in both oil secretion and hydration. A true, clean skin will have luminosity that comes from proper cleansing and moisturising.”
Instead, look for ingredients like salicylic acid (in less than 2% concentrations) and niacinamide, or medicated botanical extracts like tea tree, orange peel extract, green tea and lavender that are gentle yet effective.
What are some common misconceptions around teen skincare?
One of the biggest issues with Sephora tweens and teens? The falsely held belief that teen skin needs to be “fixed”, Glading says.
“Teen skin is naturally more dynamic, it doesn’t need harsh correction, it needs support,” she explains.
The concept of “prejuvenation” is the latest (scariest?) trend among teens, who use anti-ageing products well before they’re required in a bid to prevent the onset of wrinkles.
This age anxiety is fuelled by hyper-realistic filters on TikTok - digitally portraying what faces could look like decades down the track. Kylie Jenner was one of the first famous faces to try it, and publicly shared her reaction saying: “I don’t like it, I don’t like it at all.”
The growing fascination with youthful skin serves to fuel ageism, but it also points to concerns around using too harsh products, too early, leading to a flurry of other issues like sensitivity, allergic reactions and impaired barrier function.
Glading encourages teens to focus on their own complexions, rather than chase unrealistic standards.
“When we prioritise gentle, balanced skincare and take the pressure off perfection, we not only improve skin outcomes, but we also support confidence and mental wellbeing,” Glading says.
“When done right, skincare becomes less about ‘fixing flaws’ and more about feeling confident in your own skin.”
Are there any in-clinic treatments teens could try?
Consider gentle, pore-clearing treatments like extractions, or a course of LED light therapy to help banish acne-causing bacteria (blue light is a known bacteria killer while red light is helpful to soothe skin inflammation).
When performed in a professional setting, Glading says such treatments can “manage congestion and inflammation without overwhelming the skin”.
“What I’d caution against is jumping too quickly into aggressive treatments or high-strength peels,” she says. “Teen skin is still developing and responds best to a supportive, not corrective, approach.”
Available throughout the school holidays, New Zealand spa chain Skintopia offers a 30-minute Teen Disciple treatment treatment priced at $50, customised to suit the client’s skin on the day.
Skintopia training manager Fulvia Beillard says the treatments, which involve cleansing, exfoliation, masks, serum, moisturiser and SPF, also give teens a chance to ask questions about their skin concerns.
A simplified teen skincare routine
Our experts agree that for younger teens or tweens (14 and under) a simple, three-step routine is plenty.
“The goal isn’t to do more - it’s to do the right things consistently,” Glading says.
“A simple routine helps teens understand their skin, maintain balance, and avoid the cycle of over-treating and damaging their barrier. It also builds positive self-care habits, which, at this age, are just as important for mental wellbeing as they are for skin health.”
Step 1: Cleanse
Use a gentle cleanser to remove dirt, oil and SPF without stripping the skin barrier.
Step 2: Moisturise
Smooth on a layer of lightweight moisturiser to support the skin barrier and help regulate oil production.
Step 3: SPF
Finish with a layer of broad-spectrum SPF - essential for protecting young skin and supporting long-term skin health.
Extras
Older teens with breakout-prone skin might like to add targeted treatments, including pimple patches or spot creams.
Those battling with body acne can try misting a skin-clearing spray over their back, neck and shoulders, like the Dermalogica Clearstart Clarifying Body Spray, $58, or Mario Badescu Back & Body Clarifying Spray, $36.
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